Creating a Fitted Sheath Dress (Kalasiris) from Ancient Egyptian Old Kingdom-New Kingdom
Let’s explore the creation and significance of a stunning and historically inspired garment: the kalasiris. I thnk this is the most iconic look of ancient Egyptian dress. This fitted sheath dress, prevalent from the Old Kingdom to the New Kingdom, exudes timeless elegance and simplicity. Before we begin the tutorial we should answer a few basic questions.
What is a Kalasiris?
The kalasiris, also known as a sheath dress, was a staple in the wardrobe of ancient Egyptian women. It was a close-fitting dress, often made from linen, which was the most common fabric in ancient Egypt. The dress typically reached from under the bust to the ankles, sometimes featuring shoulder straps or a simple tube design. It was both practical and stylish, suitable for the hot climate while also showcasing the wearer’s status and style.
Documentable Evidence
Historical References
The kalasiris is documented in various forms of ancient Egyptian art, including tomb paintings, statues, and reliefs. These visual sources provide critical evidence of the dress’s appearance and its variations over time. Notable examples include:
- Tomb Paintings and Reliefs: Tombs of the Old Kingdom, such as those at Saqqara, often depict women wearing tight-fitting sheath dresses. These images show the dress extending from just below the breasts to the ankles, frequently adorned with simple shoulder straps.
- Statues and Statuettes: Numerous statues from the Middle and New Kingdoms depict women in kalasiris dresses. These statues offer a three-dimensional perspective on how the dress clung to the body and its overall fit. The statues of Queen Nefertiti and other royal women provide valuable insights into the elite variations of the kalasiris.
- Texts and Inscriptions: While less common than visual depictions, some ancient Egyptian texts and inscriptions reference clothing and fashion. Descriptions of linen garments in these texts corroborate the visual evidence, emphasizing the importance of linen and the tight fit of women’s dresses.
Archaeological Evidence
The dry climate of Egypt has preserved textiles and fragments that offer direct evidence of ancient Egyptian clothing. Some notable archaeological finds include:
- Linen Fragments: Linen, the primary fabric used for clothing in ancient Egypt, has been found in numerous tombs and settlements. These fragments show the fine weaving techniques and quality of fabric used for garments like the kalasiris.
- Funerary Wrappings: Mummies often provide indirect evidence of clothing styles. The wrappings and shrouds sometimes mimic the dress styles of the time, giving clues about the clothing worn by the deceased during their lifetime.
- Textile Tools: Archaeological sites have yielded tools used for textile production, such as spindles and looms. These tools help researchers understand the techniques and scale of linen production, essential for making garments like the kalasiris.
Artistic Representations
The artistic representations of the kalasiris are not merely aesthetic but also symbolic. The close fit of the dress accentuated the natural form, aligning with the Egyptian ideals of beauty and fertility. The use of linen, a material often associated with purity and the divine, added a spiritual dimension to the garment. Some of the most notable artistic representations include:
- The Tomb of Nefertari: The tomb of Queen Nefertari, wife of Ramses II, is adorned with vivid paintings showing the queen in various forms of attire, including the kalasiris. These paintings highlight the intricate patterns and the elegance of the dress, often complemented by elaborate jewelry.
- The Karnak Reliefs: The temple complex at Karnak contains numerous reliefs depicting women in kalasiris dresses, engaged in religious rituals and everyday activities. These depictions emphasize the versatility and ubiquity of the dress in ancient Egyptian society.
- Statuary and Busts: Statues and busts of women from the New Kingdom, such as those of Queen Tiye and Nefertiti, often feature the kalasiris. These sculptures provide a three-dimensional understanding of how the dress was worn and its fit on the body.
Cultural Significance
The kalasiris was more than just a dress; it was a symbol of social status, gender, and cultural identity. Its design and material reflected the values and technological capabilities of ancient Egyptian society. The simplicity of the kalasiris, combined with the quality of the linen and the occasional adornment with beads or embroidery, highlighted the wearer’s elegance and status.
- Social Status: The quality of the linen and the presence of adornments on a kalasiris often indicated the wearer’s social status. Higher-quality linen and elaborate decorations were reserved for the elite, while simpler versions were worn by commoners.
- Gender and Identity: The kalasiris was primarily a female garment, reflecting gender norms and roles in ancient Egyptian society. The dress emphasized femininity and was often associated with fertility and beauty, key aspects of a woman’s identity in ancient Egypt.
- Religious and Ceremonial Use: The kalasiris was also worn during religious and ceremonial occasions. Its association with purity and the divine made it suitable for rituals and offerings to the gods.
Pictoral Examples
Bottom: The Godess Hathor giving the Ankh to the deceased king. Tomb of Thutmose IV, Valley of the Kings, West Thebes
Goddess Naith, depicted within the Tomb of Nefertari, New Kingdom, 19th dynasty, reign of Ramesses II, c.1279-1213 BC. Tomb of Nefertari (QV66), Valley of the Queens, West Thebes
New Kingdom, 18th dynasty, reign of Thutmose III, c. 1479-1425 BC. Tomb of Amenemhat (TT82), Sheikh Abd el Qurna, theban Necropolis
Fitted Sheath Dress, Old-New Kingdom Kalasiris
By Talia bint al-Athir, OP Kingdom of An Tir
Materials Needed:
- Linen fabric (sheer weight preferably) or cotton 2.5 to 4 yards (varies based on size and fabric width)
- Matching sewing thread
Required Measurements: *Add for seam allowance
- Under bust- circumference of underbust at normal bra line
- Seat- circumference of hips or widest point while seated (to allow for spread)
- Length- from under bust to the floor or mid-calf
- Strap- over the shoulder from the front under bust to back/bra line
Skirt fit- underbust to hips at the widest point.
Pattern Pieces:
- Skirt: This skirt can be made as a simple tube skirt (one rectangle) or as a tappered waist skirt starting with two rectangles (length) by (1/2 seat measurement) Taper the waist by centering (1/2 waist measurement) at the top edge of the rectangle.Measure down the center to the (skirt fit) length. Use this point to to mark the widest part of your skirt/hips. From the outside edges of this point taper/ cut up towards the top to shape your skirt from hip width to underbust. Repeat for the second rectangle
- Straps: Cut two rectangles (desired width and or shape based on the options above) by (strap length). In making your strap choice be sure to consider the amount of coverage you will need to feel comfortable. Or consider wearing a bandeau type of top beneath for modesty with any strap style. You could also double the fabric of the straps if your fabric is very sheer.
For the straps in both these variations, I chose to drape them to ensure a better fit. Style two is aslo pleated at the bottom of each strap to accomodate for a large cup size providing shape and less of a gap on the side. I have also connected the side seams for full coverage.
Steps for Construction:
- Skirt: Sew the rectangles along the outside edges, right sides together. Finish the top and bottom edge with a rolled hem.
- Assembling the bodice: Finish the raw edges of your straps with rolled hems.
Attaching bodice to skirt:
- Attach the straps to the skirt with right sides together at your determined spacing based on the shape and style of strap you choose. Use a whip stitch or running stitch if prefered. For a better fit or added security, some straps may be crossed at the back.
- Turn the dress right side out and try on the dress. You may add 1-3 sets of ties to the back of the straps to help with fit and against slippage of shoulder straps if needed.
Once complete try out your new dress!