Exploring the Ancient Egyptian Pleated V-Neck Dress and Tutorial
I think by now most people interested in Ancient Egyptian textiles and garments are well aware of the pleated V-neck dress. This dress style, captured in the artistry of the Second Dynasty, is both captivating and historically significant. We’ll explore the two-dimensional iconographic evidence found in relief slabs, as well as other notable examples of pleated dresses from ancient Egypt before we jump into my tutorial for constructing a similar garment.
The Pleated V-Neck Dress in Second Dynasty Reliefs
The primary sources for our understanding of the pleated V-neck dress come from two relief slabs depicting female tomb owners, Spe (EM99-12) and N(it).mah (EM99-5). These reliefs are significant because they represent the only known two-dimensional iconographic evidence of pleated dresses in ancient Egyptian art. The reliefs show women wearing V-necked dresses with short, pleated sleeves, highlighting a unique style that combines sophistication and practicality.
- Relief of Spe (EM99-12): This relief depicts a female tomb owner adorned in a V-neck dress with distinct pleats along the short sleeves and bodice. The dress’s pleats add texture and depth, emphasizing the garment’s intricate design and the wearer’s status.
- Relief of N(it).mah (EM99-5): Similar to the relief of Spe, this depiction showcases another female tomb owner in a pleated V-neck dress. The pleats are meticulously carved, providing valuable insight into the garment’s construction and aesthetic appeal.
Other Examples of Pleated Dresses
In addition to the reliefs of Spe and N(it).mah, other examples of pleated dresses from ancient Egypt offer further context and understanding of this fashion style.
- The Tarkhan Dress: Discovered in the early 20th century, the Tarkhan dress is one of the oldest known garments in existence, dating back to around 3000 BCE. This dress features finely pleated linen, demonstrating the ancient Egyptians’ advanced textile techniques and appreciation for detailed craftsmanship. The reported signs of wear on the Tarkhan dress indicate that it was not designed exclusively as a garment for the dead but was worn in daily life as well.
- The Deshasheh Dresses: Found in the Deshasheh tombs, these garments date to the Fifth Dynasty (circa 2500 BCE). The Deshasheh dresses also exhibit intricate pleating, similar to those seen in the Sceong Dynasty reliefs. These dresses provide additional examples of the pleated styles that were popular among ancient Egyptian women.
Pleating Techniques
There are several theories about how ancient Egyptians achieved the intricate pleating on their garments. Some propose the use of chemical fixatives, “pleating boards,” and other mechanical methods. Experimental archaeology has demonstrated that a combination of water, manual manipulation, and rapid drying is very effective in pleating linen. This suggests that the ancient Egyptians could have used similar techniques.
One notable example is a Sixth Dynasty dress from the Reisner excavations at Naga ed-Der, now on display in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. This dress shows evidence of “pressing,” as the bodice bears a clear imprint of the twisted ties used to close the neck opening. The depiction of complex pleating styles in ancient art also suggests the possible use of a stiffening agent to maintain the pleats’ structure.
Cultural and Historical Significance
The pleated V-neck dress is more than just a piece of clothing; it’s a reflection of the cultural and social dynamics of ancient Egypt. These dresses were often worn by women of high status, as indicated by their depiction in tomb reliefs and the quality of their construction. The pleats, which required meticulous effort to create, signify the value placed on detailed craftsmanship and aesthetic beauty.
Function and Evolution of the Pleated Dress
As an apparently less common alternative to the sheath dress in the Early Dynastic period, the pleated dress raises many questions regarding its function. Was it an indicator of age, status, gender, or rank in society? Or was it a garment worn on specific occasions? Furthermore, how did it evolve from a dress worn by the middle- to high-ranking elite of the early dynasties into one favored by anonymous women buried in provincial cemeteries from the Old Kingdom onward? The evidence of wear on the Tarkhan dress shows that it was not solely a funerary garment, suggesting its use in everyday life as well as in artistic representation.
Useful Resources:
Jones, J (2014) .The Enigma of the Pleated Dress: New Insights from Early Dynastic Helwan reliefs, The Journal of Egyptian Archeology.
Hall, R. M. (1985). “The Cast-Off Garment of Yesterday”: Dresses Reversed in Life and Death,
Hall, R. (1982). Textile History,. S Quirke, pers. Comm.
Petrie Museum, Uniersity College of London
Pleated V Neck (sleeveless) Fitted Dress
(Based on 2nd Dynasty relief slabs, and the Tarkhan and Deshasheh Dresses)
By Talia bint al-Athir, OP- Kingdom of An Tir
Materials Needed:
- Linen fabric (sheer weight preferably) or cotton 2.5 to 4 yards (varies based on size and fabric width)
- Matching sewing thread
Required Measurements: *Add for seam allowance
- Bust- circumfrance of bust at widest point
- Seat-circumfrance of hips or widest point while seated (to allow for spread)
- Length- from widest point of bust to the floor
- Strap- over the shoulder from widest ppoint of the bust to back/bra line
Pattern Pieces:
- Skirt: Cut one rectangle piece (bust measurment) by (length). *Note if your seat measurement is wider than your bust, you will need to make a wider skirt with a tapered waist. If your fabric is not wide enough for the full measurement, cut two rectangles at the half circumfrance measurement.
- Bodice: Cut two rectangles (1/2 the bust measurement) by (strap length)
Steps for Construction:
- Skirt: Sew the rectangle to form a tube with the seam on the lefthand side of the wearer. If your skirt needs to be made from 2 rectangles or fitted to allow for a wider seat, construct your “tube” skirt as such.
- Assembling the bodice:
- Accordian pleat the length of the rectangle strap, vertically, leaving room on both sides for hemming. I suggest using an iron and starch to hold your pleats.. Make as many pleats as you prefer. I have used anywhere from 8-11 pleats depending upon the width of each fold. I have pleated the fabric towards the center. Ensure that the final width after pleating is exactly 1/4 the width of your bust measurement.
Here are examples of pleating using a pleating board and a version of finger pleating .
- Add a basting or running stitch to the top and bottom edges of the pleats to secure them while you work.
- Cut arm scythe on the outside edge to create a tapered shoulder, or leave it to create a cap sleeve style.You may want to use a dress form or self draping method to accomplish a tapered shoulder.
- Finish the center V edge and the arm scythes with a rolled hem.
- Fold the bodice pieces in half. With right sides facing together sew the seam below the arm scythe of each strap/bodice piece.
Attaching bodice to skirt:
- With right sides together attach the bodice pieces to the skirt with a whip stitch or running stitch. Be sure to align the armhole seam with the skirt seam and mirror the placement on the opposite. side of the skirt. I chose to use a sewing machine to secure the bodice t the skirt.
- The bodice pieces should meet in the center front and back. There will likely be no overlap, however some over lap of the V neck points is ok.
- Cut hemline to desired length and finish with a rolled hem.
- Turn the dress right side out and add 1-3 sets of ties to the back of the v neck to help with fit and against slippage of shoulder straps.
Front view, Back view, and Side view
Once complete, turn dress right side out and try on your new dress!
Extant pieces of pleated garments show that ties can be attached to the back of the v-neck to help with fit.
*Please note: this garment is not wash and wear. friendly. I recommend spot cleaning or dry cleaning as necessary. Hand washing or fully submerging the bodice may let out the pleats and you will need to repleat the bodice after each wash. While not impossible or overly complicated, it can be an unwanted task.