Ancient Egypt Ptolemaic Period, Graeco-Roman Inspired, SCAdian Sari Dress Tutorial

Posted On July 16, 2024

By Talia bint al-Athir, OP, CB

Barony of Madrone, Kingdom of An Tir

This step-by-step sewing tutorial details the creation of a dress that I believe could be worn as a Ptolemaic period acceptable, Graeco-Roman inspired garb.. This design, once popular in the SCA community at least a decade ago, has recently regained popularity, especially in the western coast kingdoms and hotter climates. My tutorial was inspired by my dear friends Countess Sof’ia Stepanova doch’ of the West and Astemari Zahra Tesfaye of the Midrealm, who have created similar dresses and have been wearing them for a few years.

Pictures included with permission

Countess Sof’ia

Astemari Zahra

Clothing in the Ptolemaic Era

The Ptolemaic period (305-30 BCE) was a time when Greek and Egyptian cultures merged following the conquests of Alexander the Great and the establishment of the Ptolemaic dynasty, a Macedonian Greek royal family that ruled Egypt. During this era, Egyptians wore traditional garments such as the kalasiris, a sheath dress, and the shendyt, a kilt-like skirt, often made of linen. These were combined with Greek influences like the chiton, a tunic, and the himation, a cloak, resulting in a unique blend of draped and fitted styles. Cleopatra VII, one of the most famous Ptolemaic pharaohs, is often visualized in attire that blends these influences.

Appropriateness of the Graeco-Roman Inspired Dress

This dress combines the lightweight nature of a sari with the historical aesthetics of Ptolemaic clothing. Visually similar to Ancient Egyptian V-neck style dresses, it may very well be a period plausible technique, making it ideal for those seeking an authentic Ancient Egyptian look while participating in SCA activities.

Materials Needed:

• Cotton sari (or silk/polyester)
• Iron
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Pins
• Needle and thread or sewing machine

Instructions:

Part 1: Cutting and Preparing the Fabric

1. Preparation:
   • Choose a sari for its lightweight and breathability.
   • Iron the sari thoroughly, ensuring all creases are removed, especially along the trim edges.
2. Measuring:
   • Measure the height from the shoulder to the floor.
   • Double this measurement and add at least 5 inches for blousing.
3. Cutting the Sari:
   • Fold the sari in half lengthwise at the doubled length.
   • Snip the doubled-over edge with scissors.
   • Rip the sari along the snipped line (polyester might need cutting).
   • Ensure the cut is straight and even.
   • Set aside the excess fabric
4. Creating Two Lengths:
   • Fold the full length of fabric in half (this should be the shoulder to floor length plus the blousing length). The sari trim should be running perpendicular to the fold.
   • Snip through the trim at one of the edges of the fold.
   • Rip to separate the pieces into two lengths. These pieces will become left and right sides.

Part 2: Constructing the Dress

5. Pinning the Fabric (Draping):
   1. Using a dress form or the person… 
   2. Align one piece of fabric with the trim down the center of the body. 
   3. Pin the short end (not trimmed edge) to the shoulder seam area, leaving half an inch for seam allowance.
   4. With the other edge of the same fabric align the trim down the center of the back of the body and join the short end at the shoulder seam.
   5. Ensure the fabric aligns well for the neckline.

6. Sewing the Shoulder Seams:
   1. Measure the person’s armhole and divide that number by half
   2. Sew along the pinned shoulder seam (right sides together) towards the fold, leaving half the armhole measurement length open.
   3. Use a straight stitch, running stitch to join your shoulder seams
   4. Press open your shoulder seams. 

7. Creating the Shoulders:
   1. Pleat the fabric at the shoulders, pinning in place and baste if desired.
   2. Pleat away from the neckline to avoid adding bulk.
   3. Move the fabric to an ironing board and press the pleats.
   4. Sew the pleats in place.

8. Joining the Right and Left Sides Together
   1. Join the fabric right sides together along both trim edges.
   2. Measure the v-neck opening to the desired length from shoulder to chest and mark the opening point on the fabric edge.
   3. Measure the same for the back desired opening and mark the opening point on the fabric edge.
   4. Sew the front center seam from the marked opening point to the bottom of the length.
   5. Repeat this step for the back seam.
   6. Use a running stitch or whip stitch with right sides together, or create a butted seam by laying the edges of the fabric close to each other and use a small zig-zag stitch.
   7. Press open the center seams.

9. Final Adjustments:
   1. Adjust the neckline and sew as needed.
   2. Adjust the length as needed, being sure to leave some length for blousing and to accommodate body curves.
   3. Hem the arm holes and bottom hemline using a roll hem.

• Optional Enhancements:
  • Add a trim or decorative elements using extra fabric.
  • Use the sari’s decorative pieces for additional flair.

Finishing Touches:

• While wearing the dress, add a length of rope as a belt, wrapping around the front, crossing at the back and wrapping back to the front and secure with a knot.
• Add a himation, cloak/shawl, length of fabric to drape as a wrap

Additional Design Options

• Blouson Effect: Adjust the length for a bloused look at the waist.
• Dual Stripes: Create stripes by cutting and reattaching fabric strips.
• Peplos Style: Add extra fabric for a peplos-like overhang.

 Tips:

• For shorter individuals or children, use the width of the sari fabric as the length.
• If the trim is woven into the fabric, cut carefully along the trim.
• Ensure all seams and hems are secure for durability.