Fashion in Ptolemaic Egypt: A Fusion of Greek and Egyptian Styles
By Talia bint al-Athir, OP, CB, Kingdom of An Tir
Image source: Twitter
Ptolemaic Egypt, from 305 to 30 BCE, was marked by the fusion of Greek and Egyptian cultures, creating a unique and varied sartorial tradition. The Ptolemaic dynasty was founded by Ptolemy I Soter, one of Alexander the Great’s generals, who took control of Egypt after Alexander’s death. The Ptolemies, of Macedonian Greek origin, ruled Egypt for nearly three centuries, establishing Alexandria as a major cultural and intellectual center. This dynasty is perhaps most famously associated with Cleopatra VII, the last Ptolemaic ruler, whose relationships with Julius Caesar and Mark Antony, and her tragic end, have made her a legendary figure in history. The Ptolemaic rulers were known for their efforts to blend Greek and Egyptian cultures, a policy evident in many aspects of life, including clothing and dress. This paper explores the clothing and dress customs of the Ptolemaic period, highlighting the intricate blend of styles and influences.
Cultural Fusion in Clothing
The clothing of the Ptolemaic period reflects a significant blend of Greek and Egyptian styles. The naturalistic portraiture of the deceased often included garments that highlighted Greek identity while incorporating elements of Egyptian dress. This hybridization is seen in both funerary art and daily attire, demonstrating the integration of Greek and Egyptian cultures.
Greek Influences
Greek-style garments such as tunics and mantles became common during the Ptolemaic period. These garments were often depicted in naturalistic portraits, emphasizing the societal preference for Greek language, education, and values. Greek identity markers, such as tunics, mantles, and beards, were prevalent in funerary art, suggesting their importance in self-presentation and cultural identity.
Egyptian Elements
Despite the strong Greek influence, traditional Egyptian clothing elements persisted. For example, the depiction of women in funerary art often included garments and hairstyles associated with Egyptian deities like Isis. This included the knotted mantle and corkscrew curls, which were common in representations of women affiliated with the Isis cult. Additionally, floral bandoliers and studded stoles often indicated priestly office, blending Greek and Egyptian religious iconography.
Funerary Dress and Representation
Funerary art from the Ptolemaic period frequently combined Greek and Egyptian elements. Shrouds and mummy masks depicted the deceased in Greek attire but often included traditional Egyptian symbols and scenes. This duality served to connect the deceased with both Greek cultural identity and Egyptian religious beliefs, ensuring a comprehensive representation in the afterlife.
Traditional Egyptian Garments
The Ptolemaic period saw significant cultural exchanges that impacted various aspects of daily life, including fashion. Traditional Egyptian clothing continued to be worn, particularly among the native population. Key items included the kilt, the sheath dress, and the bead-net dress. Kilts, made from linen, were commonly worn by men. They were typically wrapped around the body and secured with a belt, with the length and style varying. The sheath dress, a form-fitting garment, remained popular among women. It was made from a single piece of linen that was sewn to fit closely to the body, usually extending from the chest to the ankles and often held up by shoulder straps. Bead-net dresses, elaborate garments worn over simpler dresses, symbolized wealth and status. These dresses were highly decorative, with intricate designs often including geometric patterns and sometimes adorned with semi-precious stones.
Greek Garments and Combined Styles
The arrival of the Greeks introduced new fashion elements to Egyptian dress. Greek garments such as the himation and chiton were adopted by the Ptolemaic elite. The himation was a cloak worn over the shoulders, while the chiton was a tunic-like garment. These items were typically made from wool, a material less common in traditional Egyptian clothing. The Greek influence also introduced more draped and loose-fitting styles, contrasting with the form-fitting Egyptian garments.
Ptolemaic clothing often combined elements from both cultures. Statues and reliefs from this period sometimes depict individuals wearing a Greek chiton underneath an Egyptian-style kilt or bead-net dress. This fusion of styles created a distinctive look that was unique to the Ptolemaic period.
Male Attire
Traditional Egyptian male attire, such as kilts and shawls, continued to be popular but was adapted to incorporate Greek influences. The high-waisted kilt, a staple of Egyptian fashion, was modified in its design and fastening methods during the Ptolemaic era. This evolution reflected changes in both aesthetic preferences and practical considerations. The simplification of the kilt’s tying method into a more abstract form is an example of this adaptation.
Female Attire
Women’s attire in the Ptolemaic period also demonstrated a blend of Egyptian and Greek influences. The traditional Egyptian wraparound dress, often adorned with beads or painted to mimic straps, remained a common outfit for goddesses and deified queens, highlighting its cultural and religious significance. Additionally, the bead-net dress, frequently worn over a red wraparound dress, was prevalent in funerary contexts. This combination symbolized the protective and sacred layers over the deceased, emphasizing the dress’s symbolic importance.
The Lower Egyptian Shawl
Another significant garment during the Ptolemaic period was the Lower Egyptian shawl. This outer garment, which wrapped around the body, became particularly popular from the 30th Dynasty onwards. Its continued use into the Ptolemaic period underscores its enduring cultural relevance and the ability of Egyptian fashion to adapt and integrate new influences while maintaining traditional elements.
Tunics and Textile Techniques
When the Greeks arrived in Egypt, they introduced tunics, which became a staple in Ptolemaic and later Roman Egypt. The tunic was made from linen, wool, or cotton and could be dyed using vegetable, animal, and mineral dyes. Egyptian tunics were often bleached, while Greek tunics were draped and assembled with buttons or pins. The Romans later introduced tunics made from two rectangular pieces of fabric sewn together, often decorated with clavi, or stripes, running down the front and back from the shoulders to the lower edge. The dalmatica, a long, loose tunic with wide sleeves, was popular among women and men.
Technological advances in textile production included various types of looms used by professional weavers and for domestic purposes. The vertical two-beam loom and the ground loom were common in the Ptolemaic period. The warp-weighted loom, introduced by Greek weavers, was particularly suited for woollen fabrics. Roman innovations included a revolving vertical two-beam loom and a wide loom for making sleeved tunics in one piece.
Clothing of a Dynamic Period
The clothing and dress of the Ptolemaic period in Egypt illustrate a unique fusion of Greek and Egyptian styles, reflecting the cultural interactions and transformations of the era. The integration of Greek garments like the himation and chiton with traditional Egyptian attire, such as the high-waisted kilt and wraparound dress, exemplifies this blend. These adaptations not only reveal changes in fashion but also signify broader socio-cultural shifts during this dynamic period.
Image Gallery:
Image source: Alamy
Image source: Alamy
Ptolemaic Queen Arisone (probably Arisone II), 3rd century BC, Canopus
Statue of a Ptolemaic King, c.317-310 BC, Thebes East, Karnak Temple, Egyptian Museum Cairo
Egyptian Queen (probably Cleopatra VII) with Vulture Headdress, Walters Art Museum, 304-30 BC,
Preserved wall painting at tomb of Tutu
Official Pleated Costume, 150- 1BC, Met Museum
Berenike II, 246-221 BC, Met Museum
Statue of Ptolemaic Queen, Perhaps Cleopatra VII, 200-30 BC, Met Museum
Osiris Priest, st century CE, Le Grand Palais exhibition
Wall painting from the Tomb of Tutu,Ptolemaic Period, Sohag,
Ptolemy IV Philopator (right) and the Egyptian god of war Montu (left), Deir el Medina
Shroud of a woman wearing a fringed tunic, ca 170-200 BCE, Met Museum, Rogers Fund, 1909
Tomb of Petosiris, Hermopolis (Tuna al-Gabel). Ca. 340 BCE
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